585 karma · joined December 27, 2008
2014 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falcon_9_Flight_10 (delayed by SpaceX due to a first stage helium leak)
2015 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SpaceX_CRS-7 (failure of a strut which secured a high-pressure helium bottle inside the second stage's liquid oxygen tank)
2016 (a large breach in the cryogenic helium system of the second stage liquid oxygen tank took place)
"The LC diet, which was high in unsaturated fat and low in saturated fat, achieved greater improvements in the lipid profile, blood glucose stability, and reductions in diabetes medication requirements, suggesting an effective strategy for the optimization of T2D management."
I haven't heard of any formal studies where they got off of medication 100%; I've only heard of n=1 studies (single person reporting) where that has happened. The most remarkable n=1 is this from a type 1 diabetic: https://www.reddit.com/r/keto/comments/2rnn9b/doctors_can_su... but in this case the person is still on it which isn't a surprise as they are type 1.
[1] https://www.drupal.org/project/advagg/
[2] https://www.drupal.org/node/2493801
[3] https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1Vaad5ToVU1lc7zWdN3qN...
In this paper, we highlight how an excess of dietary carbohydrates, particularly fructose, alongside a relative deficiency in dietary fats and cholesterol, may lead to the development of Alzheimer's disease
http://www.reddit.com/r/ketoscience/comments/32ew4h/nutritio...
There's also the recent UCLA study where 9/10 patients improved after going on a keto diet http://neurosciencenews.com/alzheimers-memory-loss-reversal-...
Current research being done with the Keto diet: ALS, multiple sclerosis, Alzheimer's, and just about anything else that involves the brain like brain cancer. It's been proven to help type 1 & 2 diabetics, certain types of seizures and it's a great weight loss diet for most people.
[1] http://www.thisamericanlife.org/radio-archives/episode/354/m...
[2] http://movies.stackexchange.com/questions/4156/explain-hyper...
One interesting point about this is that the PostgreSQL benchmark tops out at 8 users whereas the MySQL ones start around 8 users and go up from there. Right at the 8 user point, both SQL engines are within the same range, just under 100k QPS on read; with the hardware (# of cores) not changing this value much, as well as the MySQL version 5.5-5.7 not having any effect either. That seems like a limit that these 2 SQL engines (PostgreSQL & MySQL) are hitting; most likely from parsing the SQL. Thus the only way to improve single threaded performance is to use something other than SQL; like the memcache protocol.
Link to the benchmarking tool they used: https://launchpad.net/sysbench. Also a guide on how to use it: http://wiki.mikejung.biz/Benchmarking#sysbench
[1] http://dimitrik.free.fr/blog/archives/2014/09/indeed-mysql-5...
[2] http://dev.mysql.com/doc/refman/5.6/en/innodb-memcached.html
[3] http://dimitrik.free.fr/blog/archives/2013/11/mysql-performa...
[4] http://dimitrik.free.fr/blog/archives/2014/11/mysql-performa...
After doing a bunch of research the conclusion I came to was Opto-isolated relays [1] are the way to go for lighting control [2]. This allows for simple logic boards to control line voltage things without the risk of the line voltage killing your logic board. Best way to do this style of home automation would be in new construction, as retrofitting it would be hard to do if the house is more than 1 story tall as you need access above and below. Would be labor intensive as well. Will also allow for manual control because you'd put a current sensor on the wire so the hardware can tell when the circuit is on/off.
I would also want to put in some thermal cameras, as motion sensors are not as useful when your sitting on the couch, to tell when you enter/exit a room for auto lighting control. Put temperature sensors in every room and have motorized dampers & air flow sensor allowing for the control of the temperature in every room. Now your lighting and hvac can be manually or automatically controlled. Wire all the sensors and controls to a hardware/software brain that can be upgraded at any time. If that hardware/software brain is disconnected, all the light switches will still work and the normal hvac system will still work; just less efficiently.
Have the thermostat be controllable from the panel when the house is occupied (thermal camera) and auto controllable when vacant.
All of the above is possible right now; it just would cost a lot of money. Every relay/current sensor is $80 bucks; every damper control is $100; every thermal camera is $500; add it all together and you got one very expensive home automation system. But it will work right now without a lot of user frustration.
[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opto-isolator [2] http://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/46601/home-light-auto...
Having a physical barrier between your low and high voltage areas is a must; the low voltage wire used to switch the relay is the only thing that should go inside the high voltage area (drill a small hole just for this wire & keep it away from 120v as much as possible), also mount the plug for your 5 volt source on this internal wall; or better yet use a USB outlet [4] as these are designed to be ran inside an enclosure. Using color coded wire for the low voltage is advised as well.
Since you're dealing with water, making this device GFCI protected would be smart. Have your mains run through this first before anything else [5]. And finally for the relay get one that is UL listed & opto-isolated in order to prevent bad things from potentially happening; the RIBTE01B [6] will most likely fit the bill. Be sure to check the ratings for your relays; putting more power through them than they are designed for might end up with your project in flames. If you're unsure about the power requirements, using a small relay to turn on a big relay [7] is OK.
[1] http://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Conn...
[2] http://www.amazon.com/Wire-Connector-Set-Screw-Black/dp/B000...
[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32z6Q8--fEM
[4] http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5630-W-Tamper-Resistant-Recep...
[5] http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-SmartLockPro-20-Amp-Combo...
[6] http://www.functionaldevices.com/building-automation/display...
[7] http://www.amazon.com/Packard-C240B-Contactor-Pole-Voltage/d...
Edit: If you do end up keeping your solid state relay, ground the heat sink.
2nd Edit: If you want to avoid the need to 3D print the enclosure, using a 4 gang box [8] you could make this work. 1st slot is your input Single-Gang Decor Recessed Power Inlet [9]. 2nd slot is the GFCI [5]. 3rd slot is the USB outlet [4] with a cover [10] for your low voltage side. 4th is the outlet [11] to your heaters. Drill a hole in the box for the relay [6] if it doesn't fit inside as it is threaded and is designed to be externally mounted like this if needed. Mounting some lights [12] is helpful to know if the device has power and the outlets are powered. If you can find a larger gang device [13], you can incorporate an simple switch to turn the whole thing on or off and maybe mount everything inside.
[8] http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-4-Gang-68-cu-in-Electrical...
[9] http://www.amazon.com/Midlite-MDT4642W-Single-Gang-Decor-Rec...
[10] http://www.amazon.com/Safety-Innovations-10408-Twin-Outlet/d...
[11] http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Duplex-Outlet-Whit...
[12] http://www.homedepot.com/p/Madison-Electric-Products-Smart-B...
[13] http://www.amazon.com/Indicator-Pilot-Signal-Light-Cable/dp/...
[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stars!?
[2] http://web.archive.org/web/20040102151647/http://crisium.com...
[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_automotive_superlatives...
[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Class_T_amplifier
[2] http://spectrum.ieee.org/semiconductors/processors/25-microc...
[1] http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/2007001...