179 karma · joined January 2, 2022
I see you added a couple more details to your post. Weight lifting sessions really aren't that productive as far as calorie burn is concerned. I pulled a random 30m weight workout and my avg HR was just over 50% resulting in approximately 130kCal/hr burned (estimated based on HR, actual could be a bit higher but unlikely to be higher than 200/hr), which does not come even close to cycling. My average calorie burn for a recovery ride is about 500kCal/hr, 575kCal/hr for endurance, 750kCal/hr for tempo and 975kCal/hr for threshold. Recovery/endurance are sustainable basically for an entire day (barring discomfort and boredom), tempo for 3-5hrs and threshold for <1hr (the 975kCal/hr effort was a 40 minutes). Cycling values are calculated from measured power output and and assume approximately 25% metabolic efficiency. My numbers are also on the lower side because I'm smaller (smaller typically means less power and so fewer calories).
> 2500kcal was on the high end of my bulking intake when I wanted to add weight for my lifting.
I would be surprised if I averaged less than 2500, though I haven't tracked in a long time. I can always feel when my intake isn't enough. My workout related output is 5000-7500+/week which is probably higher than average, though the low end is fairly well in-line with someone who runs/rides 5+ times per week. To your point, 2500 for an 'average' male is more than likely on the very high side.
As for intensity exercises, unless you actually measure your activity it will be difficult to estimate exactly how much time you're active inside of your hour exercise. I would guess a lot of people will over-estimate how much active time they really had. For example, weight lifting would be on the low side, HIIT classes somewhere in the middle and running/rowing/cycling on the high side.
That's a curious conclusion. I and most others in my circle of friends are active in a meaningful sense, at least based on my definition of "meaningfully active". Most of us are in desk jobs, and none that I know have what I would define as a "physically demanding" job.
Pros cheat and get away with it often enough.
Living in a cold-weather climate, it is the local norm to plug a car (gas or diesel) during winter even if you're only parked for a couple hours. Most cars purchased locally come with engine block heaters installed and most private parking spaces (houses, apartments, office buildings, surface lots, parking garages, etc.) provide an outlet.
That’s a bit of a stretch. Following a recipe doesn’t necessarily imply you understand how ingredients work.
I would say I’m an “above average” cook (define as you will), and yet I still use Krusteez pancake mix. They’re very good from the mix and I’d prefer to waste my time scrolling endlessly or other crap instead (I’m not fooling anyone, time saved making pancakes from scratch is entirely time wasted elsewhere).
And it just got that much more complicated to leave.
To everyone questioning why Ukranian population haven't heeded the warnings from Biden/West and left already - I can only assume you have never been in a comparable circumstance. It is easy for me to suggest/advise people leave, but I know all too well that's easier to type on a keyboard than act on in real life.
I live in a climate where normal (I.e. not extreme) temp fluctuates between -25C and +30C. You can add 5-10C to either end for the above/below average days. There is absolutely nothing romantic or glamorous about working outside in those temps. This “romanticism” you speak of, while very real, often comes from a place of ignorance and inexperience. I’ve done enough physical labour in my time in reasonable weather than I see no reason for me ever want to make a career out of it. Similar goes for interior work, I’ve done the “good” and “mediocre” jobs as DIY enough to know I would not want to do it for a living.
I owned a Walmart bike when I was 16-17. Rode it into the ground and had a blast. I did zero maintenance on it for two years (not ideal) and it serves the purpose. Bought a much nicer entry level Trek in my mid-20s and hardly rode it. It wasn’t until much later that I bought a bike that I rode more. It just happened that I could afford more and decided to spend more, but it absolutely wasn’t necessary. In fact, a guy I ride with in summer works at a LBS and still rides his trusty 1990s MTB (mid level). Oh, still regularly beats on most other riders too on it.
Nowadays Walmart is actually quite involved in the biking community and used to sell moderately high end bikes, though they may be out of the game now. Most people looked down on these bikes for some reason even though the entire group set was equivalent to a major brand high end bike. But it was sold by Walmart so how bad could it be? I suspect you don’t own one of these but the point is the same - as with many other hobbies, snobbery is very much thriving in cycling. Hell, I’m guilty of it to an extent too.
Edit: I’m also a ma… hang on, when does middle age start? I may still have a year to go technically! (But not in reality)
The markup on higher-end parts and bikes is quite ridiculous. I've SRAM Red eTap on my road bike and cassette alone is over $500. Compare that to a Rival eTap cassette at $180 (two steps down) or Force eTap at $260 (one step down) and it is enough to make your head spin. Or if you want to stick to "old technology" and go with 11sp Force/Ultegra, you can get them for $130. I half-jokingly say that I'll sell the bike before any part wears out as it will be more cost effective to replace it.
My approach is to purchase lightly used high end bikes through private sales. Find a trusted source and let them take the initial hit. Covid put a bit of a dent in those plans due to lack of bikes everywhere, but at least there's still some deals to be had as you approach top range. You can forget any deals for bikes under $5000, you're likely to pay similar prices for used as for new.
While I don’t strictly identify as above (I’ve more sense than to spend $1000/watt, or so I like to claim anyway), I do my fair share of purchasing the extra few watts. I’ve spent an embarrassing amount of time obsessing about what the optimal tire choice is for my next Cat 3 CX race. At least I’m realistic enough to know the hoards of 16-20 year olds with more handling skills and less fear will destroy my every day of the week. Joke is on them because they’ve real life coming to crush them :p
In all seriousness, I know fully well the 5-10W gain is marginal for me at best and will only get me so far. Genes, age and hours in saddle cannot be purchased. Being a late comer to the sport and not being blessed with the requisite body type, I can’t have any one of those three, but I can however throw more money at the hobby, unlike the younger ones can. And why not enjoy myself while doing so and ride around in style.
As for diminishing returns, don’t talk to bike enthusiasts about those. They’ll only be outdone by audiophiles
For a fun experiment, head out on a wet day and try to corner on both 28mm slicks and 33mm+ tires with a decent amount of tread (bonus points if you use a mud CX tread). Personal experience dictates that aggressive tread will treat you to a good dose of road rash while slicks will continue to grip far longer. I’ve far more experience with this than I should (one should be plenty).
Identify the audience and build the product for it. A tech savvy audience (HN) would love to see OCR because we have nothing better to do than look for “latest cool gadgets”.
Most paved paths are best paired with slicks/semi-slicks, even when wet (snow/ice is a separate discussion). Yet many hybrid/city bikes are equipped with a bit of tread depth. The tradeoff is durability and puncture resistance - slicks/semi-slicks can’t compete. And for people buying these types bikes, it is far more important that they reliably get from point A to point B without any flats or maintenance costs than saving a minute off their daily commute, so it is a fair trade off.
As for tubeless setups, I would hesitate to recommend those to anyone that needs this site (not that you’re suggesting that). If you don’t know what tire you need I would be willing to bet you have no idea how to fix a tubeless puncture, top up sealant, or remove/reinstall the tire.
I’ll echo your frustration 100%. I found Schwalbe Ones are much looser fitting and have no problem mounting them on two sets of rims I have that will barely take a GP5K.
For off-road riding (cross) I pinch flat almost exclusively so I don’t bother checking around. It is pretty obvious when you smack a root or rock.