J. Kenji López-Alt says you’re cooking just fine
newyorker.com
newyorker.com
> You can train yourself, I think, to be a better person just by thinking about it a lot, and acting on those thoughts.
> Be good to each other. Stop arguing in short bursts and getting mad at strangers because they had to trim complex thoughts down to a single sentence. Make your words meaningful, rather than clever. Call someone you love or someone you don’t and have a conversation. Quit this.
edit: or just look at his reddit account lol
(from:yourname)(@kenjilopezalt)I'd be really cautious about attributing people's personality traits to drinking; as insults go, that one's pretty grave.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Cooking/comments/pwmw4u/lpt_some_re...
He shows up to flex his credentials, tell me my opinion is wrong? It was odd and rubbed me the wrong way. There's a thread in ramen about making tonkostu broth in a pressure cooker where I thought he came off arrogant.
I'm not insulting anyone, it was brought up in the article
Because this thread you're in has so much to do with you?
He's your classic home-cook-gone-famous and with his support everyone thinks they're a god in the kitchen.
Nothing turns me off a recipe or yt vid quite like "Kenji says".
https://altonbrown.com/recipes/semi-instant-pancake-mix/
I don't think we have any trouble with consistency.
For baking, my go to recipe site is Smitten Kitchen.
It's not that we're anti-mix, it's that it's easy to stock the staple baking ingredients and then we can make whatever we want.
That’s pretty much exactly what I dislike about mixes and ready-made food. It’s not that they’re bad, but they are the same every time. Your pancakes taste like my pancakes. That’s boring. I like tasting other peoples pancakes. I usually stock some ready to eat food for times when cooking is just not and option, but I rarely end up reaching for it.
Also, they’re single use, they can not be disassembled to build something else. With eggs, milk, flour, butter, I can make pancakes - American and German style, Dutch Baby, Kaiserschmarrn, waffles, … A pancake mix is a pancake mix, it’s pancakes, nothing else.
Seriously, you want to change pancake mix? Use some buttermilk instead of milk. Mix in a bit of sourdough starter. Add some fruit. Cook down a can of fruit with some sugar and lemon juice and make your own syrup. There are tons of things you can do.
If I go to a fancy restaurant that specializes in pancakes, THEN I expect them to do their own thing. But waking up at morning and getting pancakes that someone has prepared for me is better than waking up in the morning and eating a bowl of cereal or a pre-wrapped muffin. MOST people don't have a go-to pancake recipe... they'd just look up and use the first thing they found online that they had ingredients for.
Your post made me realize I'm the same way with milk. I know powdered buttermilk is considered a valid substitute for standard buttermilk when cooking. I wonder if the same is true of powdered milk.
For non-baking used it can be trickier, I believe. The powdered milk doesn't always act the same.
And if you start adding sourdough to anything, consistency goes straight out the window. At least my sourdough is anything but consistent.
Like, you can buy anything and make it good.
Then again, some people just want to make reasonably good pancakes for their kids or before heading off to work, without too much thought or effort. Or having to be "creative" or think about how they compare with other people's pancakes. Are you OK with that?
I was just trying to get back to the point of the original article.
The powder is just a base.
Further, the most important thing to get right in a pancake (imo) is to get the flour baking powder mix right. Why bother with a scale and everything, if you can just buy a premix that is at best marginally more expensive?
Your point about the same thing being used for multiple is semi valid for some people. For the majority of folks, If they want pancakes this week, odds are they’d like it once more at least. Have you seen a pancake mix box? It costs two bucks and will last a single full serving or two for a family with kids.
But I would say that while it's true that the pancakes will be the same every time with a mix, I don't really eat pancakes enough for that to matter.
https://www.snopes.com/fact-check/something-eggstra/
I too find it weird that people buy that when it's so easy at home, with ingredients most people have. I suppose if you never bake you don't have flour or baking powder on hand. Eggs and milk are something everyone has.
People that are interested in cooking are going to have that stuff around, aren't going to be put off by 60 seconds of measuring things out, and like the ability to tweek the composition -- plus making things from basic ingredients increases the understanding of how ingredients work.
Also, for those of us without ginormous kitchens (mine is huge by urban European standards, tiny by suburban American), there's just a limit on how much stuff you can store that you can reliably recreate in under a minute.
That’s a bit of a stretch. Following a recipe doesn’t necessarily imply you understand how ingredients work.
I would say I’m an “above average” cook (define as you will), and yet I still use Krusteez pancake mix. They’re very good from the mix and I’d prefer to waste my time scrolling endlessly or other crap instead (I’m not fooling anyone, time saved making pancakes from scratch is entirely time wasted elsewhere).
You don't learn about how the ingredients work by making one thing from a recipe, but you do if you make a bunch of related things from similar ingredients. On the bread / cake spectrum, one learns to pretty reliably distinguish between things based on leavening agent and if they contain eggs.
Also, I wouldn't say that most above average home cook actually has much interest in cooking. But the average J. Kenji Lopez-Alt fan does. Most people cook because they need to eat. What I'm calling "interest" I'm imagining people where it's at least a hobby -- there's active effort in improving one's understanding of it and technique.
Though if you're making buttermilk pancakes I would imagine most people do not have buttermilk on hand if they're not baking.
Adam also goes into the science of cooking, and him breaking down why mixes are good has convinced me.
Sometimes you want the dish cooked from the choicest ingredients on a lazy Saturday afternoon. Sometimes you just want the end product.
He literally says while recording "Doesn't matter, still pizza. Actually, that's what I'm going to name this episode."
It doesn't matter that it was very not Instagram-worthy. What matters is that it's still pizza and he's still going to feed his family with it.
Don't get me wrong, I own a kitchen scale and it's indispensable for many baking tasks.
But sometimes seeing a pasta sauce that calls for "one onion, 175 grams" I cringe, and just imagine someone delicately shaving off bits of their onion until it weighs right, or, worse, going back to the store because their onion was 162 grams, and they thought it mattered.
As for the onion comment, I actually appreciate grams rather than recipes that call for "one large onion" - usually the onions I have are small, so then I just have no idea - could be equivalent to 3 small onions, could be 6. With grams, I can just chuck a couple on the scale to see how many I should dice up to get roughly the right amount.
That's fair; but keep in mind that the size of "one onion" can vary drastically by region, so giving an objective measurement is still helpful.
> someone delicately shaving off bits of their onion until it weighs right
Maybe if you're just learning how to cook for the first time (and self-teaching); it doesn't take long for someone to graduate beyond 101 in this respect.
A huge amount of cooking isn't actually cooking, but counter space management, dishwashing, measuring, etc. Doing that well makes cooking easy and enjoyable, as time becomes less limited. Screwing it up multiplies stress by orders of magnitude. Zen, indeed.
Since then I've been cooking a lot more for myself, mostly using Joshua Weissman's recipe's. His videos get annoying quickly (lots of overdone, repetitive, "meme" humor) but his recipes include exact seasoning amounts and the low end cooking time he lists is always perfect, never overcooked.
My mother cooked almost every night for us as children, but when I eat her cooking now I'm almost always shocked at how underseasoned and overcooked everything is. I'm not sure most people know how to follow "season to taste", they just throw some salt in and set the table without tasting anything, and keep some good ol' iodized salt in a shaker handy.
I believe it's some kind of social experiment. Like his entire online persona is an experiment.
I like the theory, though as someone that's been exploring content creation I really think it's often just necessary to act different to stand out. Often that's just narcissism though if I had to pick between narcissism and weirdness I'll take weirdness.
Is he acting normal for other videos and does what he likes for his own? Or is he a normal person but has some kind of insane SEO strategy that involves making people want to punch him in the face?
They have a bunch of free videos on YouTube:
https://youtube.com/c/ChristopherKimball%E2%80%99sMilkStreet
Kenji used to be part of Milk Street and occasionally is still a guest on their videos or podcasts.
I’ve had many cookbooks at home over the years but their recipes are far more practical for the home cook and are tailored to ingredients you can usually get at an American supermarket. Plus they have a lot of recipes that from start to finish are an hour or less including prep time.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christopher_Kimball
With that said, I highly recommend Milk Street. I've cooked hundreds of their recipes at this point and it's incredibly rare that I don't enjoy one of them. They have a great staff and guest appearances from many of the people (Alex, Kenji, et al.) referenced in the comments on this story.
Also yes, sorry, I had watched an episode recently where Kimball mentioned Kenji used to work for/with him and assumed that was Milk Street but it looks more likely it was Cook's Illustrated.
- Kenji → got into him because of Food Lab optimization articles, but discovered I enjoyed the unique perspective of his food videos done in real-time first-person
- Alex (french guy cooking) → basically a YouTube native version of Kenji's food lab where he does series where he goes really deep into topics beyond just the recipe level, but really figuring out every aspect that affects a dish or style of cooking. He also does a ton of custom builds to test his ideas.
- Adam Ragusea → incredibly practical home cooking, optimizing for what the average person might care about vs. doing things "right" -- combined with deep dives into various scientific topics, aided by interviews with experts (usually college professors). The recipe videos are good for getting a sense of how he throws things together on the fly
- Pro Home Cooks → he focuses on making everything from scratch, which is interesting in dishes where people would use pre-made components (bread, pickles, noodles, etc.)
- Joshua Weissman → very entertaining, highly ridiculous, with various series focused on affordable foods, recreating fast foods concepts, etc. makes a lot of things from scratch
- Ethan → comes up with some interesting novel techniques, and is highly specifics in his recipes an outcomes, focused on healthy food. He certainly has his quirks which can get a bit grating, but he's very consistent in what he produces.
- Babish → almost purely entertainment and less educational, but well produced videos
- About To Eat → also has some interesting series, like the ones focusing on specific ingredients, tools, or techniques
- Epicurious → has interesting series pitting amateur cooks vs. chefs that end up showing various levels of complexity of the same dishes
- Muchnie "why we eat" → experienced chefs explain the cultural roots and history of dishes while showing how they're made
etc. etc.… I watch too much food YouTube.
I tend to avoid cooking "entertainment" a la Babish and Weissman. Weissman is frustrating cause it used to be a legit cooking channel, but at some point a few years ago he stopped trying to make recipes that you would actually want to eat and focused on food porn. Then he got super lazy where you can tell he doesn't even test his recipes before filming.
On Sundays, for example, they do "The Old Cookbook Show," in which they pick quirky recipes from old cookbooks, typically 50 to 100 years old, but sometimes going back centuries. They cook the recipes and then describe how the resulting dishes taste—sometimes with disastrous results but other times with the rediscovery of a forgotten dish. For example, one recent epsiode is on a "100 Year Old Mississippi Cheese Pie Recipe," believed to be the precursor of the "chess pie" of southern United States fame.
https://www.youtube.com/c/middleeats
Middle Eastern / Levantine cuisines don't get enough love on YouTube (or in English speaking spaces in general) so I love learning about new dishes through Obi's well made videos.
There is also "My name is andong" who is really good imho. Informative and fun, more trying to showcase new things or in different lights.
There's also Chef John who is one of the OG food tubers. His narration style is a 1:1 template for how Joshua weissman talks in a lot of his recipes. He's mostly on the recipe side less on information but still enjoyable.
She's way more natural and earnest than most of these bros. Weissman is insufferable.
Chef John of Foodwishes pioneered the "food channel on youtube" and regularly referenced in recipes used by folks like Babish or Adam.
Chef John is the most no-nonsense cooking channel on YT, where you learn exactly what you need to to cook and nothing more. He has built a treasure trove of recipes over 14 years on youtube, and all of them are consistently great. To top it all off, he always has great suggestions for substitutions.
A few others:
Helen Rennie is also an excellent youtube channel in the same vein as Kenji. Very science oriented, incredibly detailed, a proper teacher and a little bit of the Adam Ragusea-esque snark.
Chinese food : Chinese cooking demystified (english) & Chef WangGang (mandarin)
Thai food : Pailin's kitchen
Indian food : VahChef (Indian Food channels are notoriously hit or miss when they step out of their regional specialties. Vah Chef's strength is in the consistency. For others, find the right kind of regional mom's youtube channel
Here are some great women creators on the platform that are also worth a follow:
Beryl Shereshewsky - tests how different ingredients/techniques are used around the world with a particular emphasis on personal stories from fans and highlighting lesser known cuisines.
Helen Rennie - Similarly science based cooking focused on approachable home recipes with a Eastern European slant.
How to Cook That - Baking channel that does a lot of viral video debunking and science based explanation of baking.
Maangchi - One of the first popular Korean food YT channels.
Pailin's Kitchen - Popular Thai recipes.
With Trial & Error - Science based breakdown of how popular industrial candy is made and replicating at home.
Claire Saffitz/Carla Lalli Music/Sohla El-Waylly/Gaby Melian - Refugees from the implosion of the BA Test Kitchen who have all managed to establish independent YT careers.
My mom's comment that I think she heard from Julia Child: Anything tastes good with enough butter in it. ;-)
I am French and a few friends have remarked that I use a lot of butter in my cooking before tasting and telling me it is the best ... they had.
I live with people with dietary restrictions, so I tend to make everything from scratch because I optimize for not killing my housemates. But I have found it's an added advantage in that if I'm mostly getting staples and assembling things myself, I both have a simpler time shopping and much less trouble meal planning because I can late-bind what I'm making since I've got ingredients for most common (for our household :) meals handy.
But that doesn't mean mixes/pre-made stuff is bad. If it's optimal for you, go for it. :)
I've been following his stuff on Serious Eats (and The Food Lab book) for years. I've never had a recipe of his let me down.
Serious Eats is overall great, but definitely trust the byline not the publication.
Still a delicious recipe, but, I learned to use my deep saute pan for it in the future.
But since I mostly use boneless chicken thighs anyway, that didn't help too much. They needed to be uniformly covered.
[1] https://mobile.twitter.com/kenjilopezalt/status/104862447412...
> I am not an owner any longer! I gave my shares to my former Sous chef Erik who still lives in the area. My involvement at Wursthall is only a friendly one, not a business one at this point.
However, in the same thread Kenji also says the following [1]:
> it’s still my recipes (and one of Stella’s!) there, as well as quite a few Serious Eats-inspired techniques.
[0] https://reddit.com/r/seriouseats/comments/oszuh0/made_it_to_...
[1] https://reddit.com/r/seriouseats/comments/oszuh0/made_it_to_...
Enjoyed this article and how personal it was. Helen Rosner is a great writer.
There are hundreds if not thousands of flours and each cake mix has a mix of flours.
How many people have more than four flours? How many emulsifiers?
Edit: to maybe answer your actual question, I think sous vide has a different goal. Different final textures, maybe more refined? Reverse sear is more fixing the common “the outside looked good but the inside is raw” problem if you don’t have a lot of steak experience.
I think if you were going to crust up a sous vide steak on a charcoal grill you’d probably want to cook it at 115-125 as well.
make sure you don't start cooking it right away after taking out from the refrigerator. I normally let it rest for 30-45 mins, sometimes even an hour.
Cook until instant-read thermometer inserted in center of steak registers 90 to 95 degrees for rare to medium-rare, 20 to 25 minutes, or 100 to 105 degrees for medium, 25 to 30 minutes.
https://www.cooksillustrated.com/recipes/3564-pan-seared-thi...
This also depends on what cut the steak is. 138F is a better target for something with more fat, like ribeye, because 130F won't really break it down.
I think the best way to handle the fat in a ribeye is to hit it hard with high heat after you've brought it up to temperature, in either a hot pan with barely-smoking oil in it, or over a lit chimney starter in your grill. (You're still not going to render all the fat into oil, but you will make it crispy and delicious).
* https://www.seriouseats.com/reverse-seared-steak-recipe
* https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pO8TUuSv7HA&t=3m10s
~130F / 55C is not crazy.
Why do the Chinese get to wield supreme executive authority over throwing some random ingredients into a thin pan on high heat? What kind of Food Holocaust do people think is going to happen if some random food blogger who isn't Chinese writes about woks? Chinese food (as if you could say exactly what is and isn't Real Chinese Food without starting a Food Holy War) isn't going to be obliterated by it.
The whole cultural appropriation thing is dead to me at this point. Yes, your book's sales might tank if some lunatic with millions of fans decides to excoriate you for being ignorant or disrespectful to some cultural trope like "the right way to stir-fry" or something. But they might also ignore you. I don't think it's worth giving yourself anxiety just to make sure you "have the right" to write about some subject. Just try to be a good person, do your work, and stay off of Twitter.
The catch with "cultural appropriation", if you read the frequently updated definition on wikipedia, is it's deemed as such if it's done with disrespect (or, alternatively, if you're white, with the rationalization that it's "colonial". Yes, words have lost meaning). Taking the care to learn something in depth as it is traditionally done is not disrespectful. However, spinning off other cultures as "exotic" consumables for personal gain can be. But we already have a word for this: disrespect.
> do remember some folks taking issue with the idea that the reverse sear was your creation.
> There’s a competition barbecue team, Iron Pig BBQ, who were doing a similar technique, but it wasn’t published anywhere. After we published it at Cook’s Illustrated, some people were, like, “Oh, yeah, this chef is doing it.” There were people concurrently doing it. The more generous claim would be that I independently came up with the idea, and certainly Cook’s Illustrated popularized it.
How is this narcissistic?
Now, not calling Kaffir Lime leaves by their name because some hypothetical person might be annoyed is just pompous virtue signaling BS. It's insufferable.
I’ve been following his stuff since the aughts. At this point I almost never make his recipes as stated. I’ve learned which techniques I find worth it, which I don’t, and in others I’ve folded in things he came up with later on his own journey
I find most of his recommendations made me a faster cook.
Will it make an amazingly tasty burger? Yes, when you also spend as much care with the prep and cooking.
Is it worth it when you want a burger on a late weeknight? It depends...
Sometimes that's exactly what I want to do.
It's worth putting in extra effort every once in a while. I don't just down a bottle of Soylent™ every meal: I cook because I enjoy cooking - it's not merely a way to keep myself alive.
That said, I really had a lot of fun grinding my own meat to make burgers. Doubt I'd do it every time, but I'd definitely break it out for a BBQ with good friends. Cooking is a fun skill to learn!
I think he may have that tendency somewhat but it's not as nearly as bad as some other places like Cook's Illustrated (where I guess he used to work) which really tend to add unnecessary steps for very small improvements.
At serious eats he sometimes made multiple versions of recipes, an easy version and a more complicated version, to make it possible for people to decide which they want to make. On his videos he often explains optional steps that can be omitted.
Also, FYI that's not really what "supertasters" means (it doesn't mean people who have a discerning palate and can pick out subtle flavors, it means people who are hypersensitive to certain bitter flavors).
Watch his youtube channel and more recent stuff, it's a lot more toned down and accessible to everyone.
His videos skew meditative - generally little to no talking, just relaxing music, the sounds of cooking, and beautifully cinematic shots of every step in the process.
Like, you could make his bolognese recipe that takes a bajillion ingredients, or you could make the quick+easy bolognese recipe on a weeknight. Same with French onion soup, or chili...