c0nsumer

When zooming in and it switches to the lighter color tiles, the icons basically become invisible.

Client isolation is done at L2. You can't add exceptions for IP ranges / protocols / etc this way because that's up the stack. Even if devices can learn about each other in other ways, isolation gets in the way of direct communication between them.

Outside of security stuff, over the years I've found this really handy for troubleshooting as well. Being able to extract detailed process info, screenshots, and a bunch of other things from a memory dump have allowed me to get a better idea of what a user was doing when a Windows BSOD occurred.

It builds more a nice picture of what was going on when paired with the users description. Or sometimes, depending on the user, you just don't have anything else to go on besides "it crashed".

I suspect they are meaning because it's uniform you can easily find the studs through it and fasten things directly into them.

An uneven wall material (plaster on lathe, or even plaster on drywall as we have in most of our house) can be quite a hassle to find the actual timbers/studs behind.

Small world!

You're welcome.

Yeah, give borg a look. It's just faster to back up, faster to delete old backups, and just easier to do restores because so long as you have the appropriate credentials you can list the archive from any machine.

I think there's still a place/use for --link-dst and hardlinks, but as a backup system I think borg does it better.

For reference: https://nuxx.net/blog/2019/11/10/using-borg-for-backing-up-n...

Hard links are file level dedupe.

And then once all references to the inode are removed (by rotating out backups) it's freed. So there's no maintenance of the deduping needed, it's all just part of how the filesystem and --link-dest work together.

Ha. That's a throwback.

I did the same thing, but with a more detailed writeup, in 2009: https://nuxx.net/blog/2009/12/06/time-machine-for-freebsd/

It was really handy, but I now use borg as it just works better.

A weird flipside is things like... the IKEA Zigbee devices. Many of these do not work right at all with 1.5V batteries and basically require rechargables.

With the advent of new RGB (three column, like most LCD) OLEDs I wonder if Apple's next high-end display is going to use that. It'd be a whole bunch of things aligning for a good ecosystem.

And I know this is a whole lot of personal preference, but I like macOS. It works well for me. It's a good UNIX(-like?) with professional-level apps.

I support/maintain/use Windows systems for a living so I'm comfortable there as well, and I'd be mostly fine on a Linux but the lack of pro-level apps for some of my hobbies (namely, map making) and sufficiently-user-friendly equivalents for a few other apps (eg: rubiTrack, Hazel, Photos.app) is a problem.

(A bunch of years back I made a conscious choice to do less sysadmin-ing at home, even if I have to pay a bit more. It's freed up mental capacity for using computers as a means to an end vs. an end itself. And it means I don't have the flexibility of Linux or other OSS things at times, but I've been able to work within that. But I'm getting way off topic here...)

Yeah, and I'm not terribly interested in getting into the details of how everything renders... I just want a display that works and doesn't make my eyes feel funny.

The PA27JCV (which I don't expect to have back from warranty repair for 3+ weeks) looked fine, and I'm now at day 5 of using the U3223QE and it's fine. So this is my solution to the problem I guess.

The person who bought mine was a family friend who wanted a large display for her kid to do 3D printing stuff. Since he was just going to be running a slicer and some basic modeling stuff, it seemed perfect. I got a bit of cash, he got a computer with a good display, and it was a general win all around.

Ahh, here you go then: https://nuxx.net/images/screenshots_for_DiabloD3.zip

I would send them, but I've already returned the OLED to Costco. Sorry. :\

On the upside, I should have a shiny new U3225QE IPS LCD later this week.

(I just sidestepped the problem.)

EDIT: I should add that the screenshot in my post of a cell from a spreadsheet was Numbers.app.

Numbers.app, Autodesk Fusion, Adobe Illustrator, and Terminal.app were the first places I noticed it. And in Fusion and Illustrator it's not text that's the issue but lines/graphics.

And high contrast edges in photos in Apple Photos looked wonky.

...yet at 4K native on macOS (OS X) I could see fringing. And it was worse than using a slightly lower resolution, scaled up by the OS.

And it's particularly bad on solid color lines and high contrast borders (not fonts). So... that doesn't work for me. Which was the point of the post; I don't like how this particular subpixel pattern OLED monitor looks and it's not for me.

Do tell, how does one avoid this problem on macOS when needing to use colored fonts and lines? (That is, flipping to greyscale isn't an option.)

I actually had a 5K iMac that I sold when I got the Mac mini. As I was deciding on the display I looked at doing that, but I wasn't super keen on the unfinished look. And IIRC it was going to cost about $250 in parts at the time. I was able to get the ASUS for about $700 and sell the iMac for ~$300. So it was really only about $150 more to not DIY it and have a more finished final package.

It is a really neat looking project, I just determined it wasn't for me.

(Author here.)

I'd say that because the article documents my experience at this point in time, the only poor timing is when my old-ish monitor died and I went looking for a replacement. And this article documents my experience with that.

(Author here.)

This is akin to how I've (technically?) stepped back from a 5K 27" to a 4K 32". Likely due to scaling and how far I sit from the screen (about 24" -- average I think) things look the same? At least, I don't notice that the 4K is any worse.

Me being me, I can't help but think I should have a 5K or 6K or whatever, but the price is... high. So I figured I'd try a 4K 32" since the OLED was cheap and the result was this post because the subpixel pattern messed with me. But now for the replacement I'm looking at a simple (but nice color / high end) 4K 32" IPS LCD.

And having been using one for the last day, I'm pretty content with it. It's like everything I wanted from the OLED without the eye strain.

That sounds familiar. I also have ever so slight green-brown color blindness. It's only really noticeable in low light (like in the woods in evenings), but that could well all stack up to be a problem.

I also have significant problems with blue LEDs around the house, to the point where I've removed, replaced, or covered almost all of them. They really, really bother me because it feels like my eyes never focus on them and they leave me feeling slightly disoriented.

OP is me, and yeah, AFAIK they did.

It's a problem with how this subpixel problem aligns with my use (mostly static content with high contrast edges) at the display scaling I'm using.

It just doesn't work for me, so until I can get a more traditional pixel pattern OLED at a price I'm willing to pay I'll just go back to LCD.

(Author here.)

I do have astigmatism. You do make me wonder if this plays a part as well...

(Author here.)

There's no Cleartype in use here, as the first paragraph says, it's macOS.

And I'm using the default font sizes because they work well for me on an LCD. The point of this post is to document my experience with trying a current-gen generally-available OLED and how it did not work out well because of the subpixel arrangement.

It's also not just an issue on text, it affects any high contrast edges, especially perfectly vertical or horizontal ones. This meant that CAD stuff, spreadsheets (the grid), and large colored sections in graphic design software looked off as well.

(Author here.)

The other issue is that it's not just a text problem. It affects any high color contrast edges, especially directly vertical or horizontal ones. So subpixel rendering tweaks for text rendering (eg: Cleartype) don't solve the whole problem.

(Author here.)

That's an interesting point you mention about not seeing it, because prior to buying an OLED I'd read a bunch about fringing and in many articles I just... couldn't see it. I couldn't tell what was being illustrated in the images.

It wasn't until I sat in front of one for a few hours, in my room and lighting and with my apps and had funny-feeling eyes and a this-seems-off feeling that I decided to investigate. And yes, those macro photos show fringing, but it /is/ hard to understand how the subpixel pattern translates to on-screen weirdness until you've seen it for yourself.

Yep -- you've got it exactly. macOS and no Cleartype.

Had I been using this on Windows I would have started to solve it by trying to tune that.

(Author here.)

I actually am using it, but I didn't want to go down the rabbithole of an all-encompassing article on displays, PPI, scaling, etc. Using it to scale the display really helps, but I find that for the size of things I like 3008x1692 (on a native 3840x2160 panel) and this looks fine on an LCD. And is better than native res on the OLED, but still not great. It still bugged my eyes.

I just went with native res for demoing things because it's a worst-case, but the fringing problem, because it affects all strong-contrast edges not just text. It was also really noticeable at thin/narrow lines such as when doing CAD or between cells in spreadsheets.

Those do show the best example, yes. And best to photograph. But it's also noticeable on any high contrast edge or a fine line, like a drawing in Autodesk Fusion (CAD software) or just the lines between spreadsheets.

And no, no Cleartype here because (as mentioned in the first paragraph) it's a Mac running macOS.

Yep -- it's an IPS LCD. And based on the failure more (here's a video of it [1]) with a vertical bar dark and the whole screen blinking when large white sections are displayed, I believe it's likely a power supply problem, maybe coupled to draw from the backlight. (Localized smaller LEDs, more get turned on when things are white.)

I'd been having an issue with a vertical dark bar during wakeup for a few months, but it'd go away after the whole screen came up so I pushed off opening a case. Then one day the whole thing started having problems.

[1] https://youtu.be/JtbTQ4ldSkI

This article is about a machine running macOS. Nothing to do with Cleartype in here at all.