http://www.mobileread.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203326
https://github.com/koreader/koreader
ePub and PDF support, text reflow/cropping/reformatting (great for papers!), plethora of options from contrast to margins, custom fonts, per-document style sheets, etc etc.
You can also install things like Gargoyle for interactive fiction on the go.
http://www.fabiszewski.net/kindle-gargoyle/
Just make sure to set up BackDoorLock so that Amazon can't force an OTA update on you.
http://www.mobileread.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205666
You might also want the Rescue Pack in case things go wrong. It boots you into diagnostics mode if you start your Kindle with a USB cable plugged in..
http://www.mobileread.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195670
(how to exit diags mode) http://wiki.mobileread.com/wiki/Kindle_Touch_Hacking#Exiting...
See the FGA thread and MobileRead's "Kindle Developer's Corner" for more info.