There were some blog posts that were far clearer to understand the file format, but unfortunately I lost track of them.
Took me some time to get used to, and yes, you always have to read the entire paragraph.
In the unlikely case that this is intentional it's genius: it doesn't let you get away with "what do I need to know to make this code compile/kinda-sorta-run", but almost forces you to at least notice the things you should know when using it (protecting you from dangerous half-knowledge).
I'm not sure if this is perfect for file format documentation, but I would guess that a more "traditional" presentation would answer certain questions faster - such as "oh! this looks easy" / "this will take me weeks to work through", or "no, they don't seem to use RFC455692673 index optimization". However, for actually uisng the format for something productive, the time invested would be about the same.
All in all, SQLite is a pleasure to work with, and that's something outstanding on its own.
I'd previously written code to read the lucene database format (python code that time), which was also a good learning experience. I ended up leveraging some of that knowledge for a work project.
And I've also played around with reading/writing git archives.