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This is command + option + J

If you're using a windows keyboard, this should be the windows key + alt + J

ctrl + shift + j in chrome for windows (or simply F12)

Basically just open the javascript console.

I think OP wanted ⌘ and ⌥ spelled out (command and option respectively)

right-click -> inspect element should work everywhere

On FreeBSD 9x it was Ctrl + Shift + i, so I inferred that what I initially thought was a lower case "L" was actually an upper case "I." (the Shift)

That was the first thing I tried, but apparently that opens Mail for some reason.