Now however, Heroku lets you build your own checkout lane, so you can run apps with single-response thread Rails, multi-response thread(e.g. unicorn) Rails, and async long-polling/SSE etc apps w/ ruby/node.js/scala/go/erlang/etc that can handle huge numbers of simultaneous connections. Throw websockets into the mix here too (we do). And you can even mix & match within an app, distributing requests to different stacks of code based on URL or the time of day, which may have different internal response/queuing characteristics (e.g. we have a Rails app w/ a Grape API w/ a handful of URLs mapped in via Rack::Stream middleware rather than going through Rails).
So to get back to your analogy, Heroku is automating the setup of the "lanes", but each supermarket is allowed to use its own blueprint and cashier and checkout process, and basically just do whatever they want within a lane. Maybe some "lanes" are more like a restaurant where 25 customers spend an average of 45 minutes at a time juggled between 6 waiters while others are still bottlenecked supermarket checkouts, with everything in between. Maybe one type of customer ties up the cashier/waiter so much that he can only handle 10 others instead of 100 normally. And it could all change every time the store opens (a deployment with new code occurs), or based on what the specific customers are buying.
The point is simply that there's not a "next available checkout counter" in this situation, because all apps are not single-threaded Rails apps anymore. Which doesn't mean there aren't better solutions than dumb routing, but it does get a bit more complicated than the supermarket checkout.