What does this mean?
I couldn't find a model/calculator that would help visualise typical COP values for particular climatic conditions. However, you'll find in your travels that a COP of ~2-2.5 is typically achieved for ambient (outdoor) temperatures of -15oC (for air sourced heat pumps).
If 300L of water at 15oC is filled into a tank and needs to be heated to 60oC within 2 hours during ambient temperature of -15oC, you get very approximately (no thermal losses considered):
- An output energy need of approximately (4190300(60-15))/(60*120)=~8kW (56MJ/2h)
- An input electricity need of approximately (8/2.2)=~3.6kW
Instead of a resistive heating hot water unit requiring 16kWh to do this job, you could use a heat pump hot water unit requiring 7.2kWh, cutting electricity use in half.
And this is for arguably the most extreme use case for a heat pump hot water unit where it's "cold started" right at the coldest moment in Winter in cool-temperate climates (such as SE Australia). Think for example, arriving at a ski chalet and having to turn on the hot water unit before someone can take the first hot shower.
On a more typical day of the year, perhaps with overnight ambient temperature of 10-15oC, the COP would rise to ~4, equating to an electricity consumption of 2kWh to heat the 300L of water. A lot of units will be set to heat during the warmest part of the day, let's assume an ambient temperature of 25-30oC, where a COP of ~5-6 is more typically achieved. However, there are obviously diminishing returns for COP of 4 vs 5.
In arctic climates, heat pumps are still used, but with a ground or aquifer source rather than ambient air source.[2]
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coefficient_of_performance
Which means in winter that is extra work for your heating system to compensate for
But in climates where heating only really runs in winter it's great
Unless you live in the artic where it's freezing year round, these things make sense. During the summer they reduce your cooling load and during the winter they are effectively heated by whatever your home heater is. Meaning if it's gas, then they are gas powered. If you have a heat pump outside then it's still pretty efficient. Even in the worst case of a resistive heater you are basically just running a slow resistive heater.
And for the normal ones, at least they are leveraging outside temperature parts of the time while everything else stays at 1 in 1 out.
Most homes in Japan for decades have been designed for Tankless Gas Water Heaters stuck on the side of the building so there is no room indoors for a water tank.
The condenser unit for this literally just looks like the same one as for a regular mini split air conditioner, just a little bit larger.
I have a tankless in my house and I'm not going back... I wish someone made a heat pump tankless water heater (I don't know if that is possible)
I was worried going from living with tankless to a tank that we would run out of water like we did in my parents house as a kid but so far it's just never been a problem. I think it helps that while the physical water capacity of our unit is 370 liters, the internal temperature is 80 C and it uses a thermostatic valve to blend the output, so the "hot water capacity" is more like 500 liters.
So no, not possible. Theoretically you might be able to do it with a stupid enough system of coils and a very ridiculous amount of power, but it wouldn't be efficient or practical.
The tl;dw is that it is significantly slower than a resistive or gas-powered water heater, and lowers the temperature of the room by a few degrees, but nothing major. You have to over-provision them compared to your needs. And they are way bigger.
This was TC being a weirdo. He bought a 120V hot water heater. Had he done a regular 240V water heater the recovery time would be comparable to pure resistive water heaters.
But the takeaway about cooling is important. These things barely chill the room they are in.
Because heating water requires higher temperature differences (usually heat pumps get more inefficient then). And with an "ordinary" (propane) heat pump you get such high numbers only in summer time (>=20°C) and for water temperatures of max 50°C.