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I am currently in Italy (just passing through) and was able to open the archive link with the article

If you're using roaming on your cellular plan, all your traffic is routed over VPN to your home country, so local blocks don't work.

(That's one of the reasons why it's trivially easy for foreign visitors to China to bypass the Great Firewall.)

If you were on wifi, that's notably interesting.

I was on the resort’s WiFi, no vpn. What is strange maybe is that if I search my outgoing ip address, the resort is listed as the ISP

We can tell OP is using local or unencrypted DNS because they got DNS-redirected to a message.

If you have DoH configured at either OS or browser level then you will not see a message: the site will either work, or it will error out if the IP is blocked.

If you are using an alternative DNS provider over unencrypted DNS then either outcome is possible.

I'm not sure that roaming still works that way. It used to. I think you get configuration from your home network but everyone involved tries to get your traffic onto the internet at the closest opportunity.

Then you probably had a home country IP and they filter based on IP.

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