The part that doesn't make sense to me is that trying to read through a zeroed PTE should be an immediate segfault, not something that reads back zeroes (regardless of whether the zero page is pfn 0 (it isn't)).

I think the broad strokes are that, due to bad locking in the kernel, mmap() returns a VA that a concurrent munmap() is still in the middle of unmapping. The specifics beyond that seem murky/speculative/inconsistent.

Alternatively, it could be a hardware bug, since afaict it's only been repro'd on one hardware config. (I know there are a bunch of ARM cores with erratas around TLB invalidation)