As someone who's pre-18, without the nostalgia bias, I couldn't find the website any uglier, but the guestbook part... That was cute.
It's not supposed to look like that.
Also, yeah. The site was ugly, you're not missing or misunderstanding anything. It's pure nostalgia to those who experienced the web back then, a reminder of a simpler, more ideal time in the internet's life.
[1]https://wackoid.com/game/10-pictures-that-show-why-crt-tvs-a...