Maybe they just don't really use anything else, but I just love that the most reliable memory is just Kingston ValueRAM. No fancy heat spreader or packaging, not even a black PCB, just chips on a classic green circuit board.
The difference in performance between "good" and "bad" DDR5 can be very large.
Thankfully Industrial Motherboards exist though not cheap or simple to obtain depending. Examples:
https://www.asrockind.com/en-gb/industrial-motherboards
https://www.advantech.com/en-us/products/microatx-motherboar...
Preempting the inevitable comment: "just turn it off". That doesn't always work. I bought a mouse once, I think it was Razor, that required their electron slop-ware to control the lights. And if you didn't keep the software running, the lights would default to on. I had to take it apart to desolder the LEDs and throw them in the trash. And of course, like all mice I've seen, the screws were under the teflon feet, so I had to mangle them slightly to get in there. It was a decent mouse otherwise, but screw that nonsense.
The downside is that they're not cheap.
It's also getting to a point where I wind up paying a price premium for non capital g gamer hardware. Fortunately opaque cases are still a thing and can hide some of it.
My keyboard LED is controlled internally without software. My mouse requires software to set, but there is open source rgb control software that was trivial to install and set once, uninstall and forget.
The only one I got wrong was my GPU, which apparently isn't rgb but just has a strip of coloured light beaming at all times.
Thankfully my case isnt mesh everything, so most light is kept inside.
You can program them from a VM, then toss that away and the mouse remembers its settings, even multiple "profiles". You don't have to put up with electron slop-ware or whatever the crap dev platform du jour is. They just work.
I had a logitech that did the same thing. When I found out I had to use the Windows bloatware to turn the LEDs off I became so enraged that I opened the mouse with my bear hands then twisted and ripped the LEDs off the board.
Does it?
That kingston ram is DDR5-5600, with smaller memory sizes, and has a longer warranty. This suggests that the product is binned memory from a line that is relatively mature (and by extension low failure rates).
And, because it's clocked lower, it runs cooler, which reduces failure rate.
On top of that, server memory is usually binned more strictly. And, it usually has bits missing for ECC, custom controller firmware, and cutting edge processes for packing more memory into the form factor.
Now as a consumer you may think an LED is "riced" out, but I think custom firmware on your ram built for your application is way more "riced".
> None of that stuff actually helps
It probably actually does, especially for "high end" ram. IE stuff running at much higher transfer rates. Heat and voltage are the enemies of stability here. A heat sink/transfer shield is certainly going to help (in theory, anyways)
On top of that, server ram has a higher expectation of cooling quality than consumer, which can be anything goes.
They're usually perpendicular to the air flow. Bonus points for there being a beefy ATX connector in front.
So maybe the first stick gets some air, but all the others are hidden behind it and don't get much. I think that's the theory why many heatsinks on ricing sticks tend to have a comb design.