So if you're expecting a table to have a heavy UPDATE load it may be a good idea to lower its fillfactor from the default of 100 (for example, ALTER TABLE foo SET (fillfactor = 95);). This means that once a page is 95% full no new rows will be inserted into it, and the remaining 5% will be available for updated rows. HOT will also do "mini-vacuums" on individual pages as needed to free up space.
Of course, it's up to you to decide whether this tradeoff is worth increasing the effective size of your table by ~5%. But even tables with fillfactors at the default of 100 will get some benefit from HOT.
More info: https://github.com/postgres/postgres/blob/master/src/backend...
Edit to add: One caveat is that HOT won't work if you UPDATE a column that is indexed - then, of course, Postgres will have to touch the index.