I don't particularly recommend this article, it's a little bit too simplistic and the reasons given are not quite right.
[1] https://people.freebsd.org/~lstewart/articles/cpumemory.pdf
ISA/OS level: Architectural and Operating System Support for Virtual Memory
(Both are books)
And if you have a steady hand, a magnetized needle and a hard drive can be used for practice exercises.
Finding the inevitable bugs in the formal model is left as an exercise to the reader (three bugs where the axiomatic/operational models disagree are already known).
If you want a more gentle introduction, the Computer Organization and Design book is pretty nice.