Part of the point, not the whole point. Regenerative breaking is absolutely a win; but there can also be a significant benefit from allowing the ICE to remain in the RPM "sweet spot" rather than moving around a larger range.
Part of the point, not the whole point. Regenerative breaking is absolutely a win; but there can also be a significant benefit from allowing the ICE to remain in the RPM "sweet spot" rather than moving around a larger range.
Toyota Yaris - HSD - 1.5L 4cyl Renault Clio - E-Tech - 1.6L Hyundai Kona (SUV) - 1.6L Honda Jazz - 1.5L Peugeot 208 - 1.2L Peugeot 3008 (SUV) - 1.6L Peugeot 5008 (Family SUV) - 2L And the list goes on. Even BMW with it's xDrive puts out 1.5L engines.
Huge engines are only common in two places: sports cars (and even then, only a specific category like AMGs and friends, because even a Porsche 992 only has a 3L engine) and the US.
1.5L is an incredibly small engine, especially when previous versions required much larger. The Renault Scénic IV is a 1.5 ton brick that is happily running on a 1.2L engine. The Scénic II's most sold motorization was a 2L engine.
edit: oh it was mine heh, my first car was a 1979 ford with a 460 ( 7.5L v8 ). It was a hand me down from my grandfather, he said if i could get it running i could have it.
I hired one on holiday and it worked fine. Maybe I'm getting old but I see less point in getting something that does 0-60 in 4 sec when most traffic goes from 0-40 in about two minutes and doesn't get much faster. It still has a top speed over 100mph.
Like absolutely, unless you consider 1.4L petrol engine large for something with over 170KW (over 220hp). Such kind of offerings are quite common at the East side of the pond.
I have no doubt that some people behave as you describe, but I think some of that is driven from a rational position of not wanting to buy a car that is incapable of anything more than their normal daily driving. If you need to accelerate quickly to merge safely into traffic, bringing only 75 [or 71] peak horsepower to the table isn't a comfortable position to be in.
The sub 100 power doesn't mean much if the engine has a turbine, e.g. TSI of volkswagen
So what is the well to wheel efficiency of this vs. pure electric? There are fuel transportation losses in one, and transmission line losses in the other. In many cities electricity is quite a bit more expensive than gas so hybrids are a better deal financially.
In 2010 with the Chevrolet Volt.
They go test-drive cars, probably glance at performance specifications and/or read/watch a test drive review of the cars. They can look at the 0-60mph/0-100 kph times and get a feel for "this car will be able to get out of its own way" vs "this car will be a rolling roadblock".
So "actually understand"? Maybe not, but "understand enough to guide their purchasing decision?" and therefore enough for the actual automobile product teams to design to accommodate? I think they do.
Those are super rare though.
Seriously though, hybrids seem like a bad compromise to just getting an EV. Hybrids have an electric drive train with an ICE drive train, and somehow that double complexity will be worth it? In the long run, EVs are winning on cost alone (especially in China where making cheap EVs is a thing).
But then, do you end up removing enough battery weight to offset the weight of a whole ICE?
Toyota is the biggest seller of HEV's, Stellantis of PHEV. That's the difference. EV's on paper should be the most reliable, but Tesla is the biggest seller of those. If you want reliability, choose by brand rather than engine type.
Mostly issues with 12V battery, it seemed like.
In the end I bought a Stellantis EV so I probably deserve everything I get - but they are cheap!
Eh, it's not so much nonsensical, as it is that you're just misinterpreting the data.
This conversation here is specifically about powertrain reliability, but that isn't what consumer reports measures. They measure complaints about any feature on the vehicle, including ancillary accessories unrelated to the vehicle's ability to transport people.
But also as you point out, shitty engineering (Stellantis's specialty) is a bigger issue than any particular drivetrain type.
Just think - if two drivetrains were less reliable, wouldn't you see that with the Prius?
Commercial aviation is a great example of taming extreme inherent unsafety of aircraft by applying a lot of resources to the engineering side. Another is space programs.
And car power trains have nothing on those ;) As Toyota has shown, it's totally possible to make reliable hybrid cars with enough engineering thrown at the problem.
So if all things were equal, you'd absolutely expect an EV to be more reliable than a hybrid, but all things are rarely equal.
On the other hand, a Toyota hybrid doesn’t have a gearbox at all, not even a CVT. Instead it has something similar to a differential, it’s mechanically simple and very reliable. It uses the electric motor in place of a turbo, so that’s another common failure point removed. It doesn’t have a starter motor, and the Atkinson cycle engine should suffer less stress than an equivalent petrol.
Practically the biggest problem is finding a 3rd party garage who will inspect the hybrid parts as part of a service.
I hate to break it to you but something like a Rogue or HRV does circles around an Altima or Civic when it comes to daily flexibility and utility for a fairly paltry additional cost. It doesn't take a degree in rocket surgery to figure out why they fly off the shelves. For the average person they're a good combination of attributes.
A practical car is a station wagon, not an SUV, many of which have less storage space.
Please, cut the needless snark. People do buy vehicles for edge cases but the lack of smaller, practical vehicles is driven is large part by manufacturer profit.
I agree that there's a lot of stupidity going on when it comes to station wagons vs crossovers vs compact SUVs and the OEMs really do SUV-ify a lot of things that ought not to be.
The shape of these vehicles is fairly preordained by the nature of the fuel economy regulations and wind resistance and other regulations that apply equally to all of them. You're not gonna find "more space" in something like a Subaru Outback by squashing it on the vertical axis unless you stretch it in another dimension or find somewhere else to find space. Maybe you might be able to eek out a slightly better angle on the hatch or something but it ain't gonna be much. Fuel economy regulations make cars with thicc asses like the big sedans and station wagons of yesterday nonsensical.
The snark is not needless. It is tautologically impossible for the overwhelming majority of people do be "doing it wrong" on a matter that is in large part a subjective one of preference. If someone wants to assert that then I will talk down to them.
People buy these small SUVs left and right because they're seemingly the best option when it comes to well rounded boring A to B vehicles.
The "gas pedal" becomes a "I want to go faster/slower" pedal, its position has zero impact on the RPM.
As an anecdote: A security company I know only buys Toyota Hybrids for their guards just because of that. They have a habit of driving cars like they stole them and normal ICE cars break down from that kind of abuse. Hybrids won't let you abuse them, they pick the RPM and you deal with it.
(They also swap the passenger seat for a plastic box because the guards threw heavy crap like safety boxes on it, wearing down the seat in months)
There are some really good videos out there going over how newer CVTs work. Looks like some people are working on ones that are teeth driven, to reduce the loss from being free belt driven. Borderline magical stuff, all told. (Obviously, not magic magic. But very very impressive designs.)
They use a series-parallel hybrid transmission which is sometimes called eCVT, but works completely different from a classic CVT. There are no pullies, belts, chains, none of that. What they do have is a couple of motor-generators and a differential to link the system up with the engine and the drive shaft. No friction losses like CTVs have.
See https://prius.ecrostech.com/original/PriusFrames.htm, or look up "Hybrid Synergy Drive" on Wikipedia or Youtube or your favorite search engine.
Is fascinating to watch these things work.
From a mechanical engineering standpoint, the Subaru CVT uses a fairly conventional lock-up torque converter at the input, but that gets locked as you pass something like 15-20 mph (once the lowest gear ratio is satisfactory w/o the torque converter function) and beyond that all shifting of the CVT is done w/ the torque converter locked. In addition, the clamping force of the sheaves is adjusted per the torque load of the transmission to minimize the frictional losses.
Anyway I'm curious about data comparing efficiency of conventional and CVT automatics.
The videos online that look at various CVT systems is truly an amazing resource that I regret not having when I was younger. :D
This would be similar to hitting the optimal torque point. The idea there would be that you can get out of the acceleration phase faster, so that you can transition to a more efficient gear to maintain the speed for longer.
The wikipedia looks to cover this well. One of the cites is specific on the efficiency of the CVT. I think I overstated how much higher the loss is, so maybe that is confusing things? I thought it was 10-20, but the cite on the page shows it solidly around 10.
Interestingly, my car gets better gas mileage around the 40ish speeds than I do at full highway speeds. That somewhat surprises me. It is very dependent on not having a heavy foot, of course.
For EVs, the drivetrain efficiency is so high that it's variability with operating point doesn't affect this calculation much, and so the most efficient speed of an EV is around the speed at which the fixed losses equal the aero ones. This will vary greatly with environmental conditions since AC or heating load can be large in hot or cold conditions but at the right temperature will go to near zero.
In ICE cars, the drivetrain efficiency is much lower and so the drivetrain efficiencies are a much more significant part of the optimization problem, but the basic physics of the aerodynamics are the same.
The model I used to use in my head is that for an ICE, the most efficient operating point is probably around the lowest speed the car can operate in the highest gear, so maybe around 40 mph / 60 km/h? Obviously a rough heuristic though.
The main reason why city mileage is usually lower is because of all the stopping.
I'm also surprised for the first few minutes when I drive it how little "engine braking" it has (my habit is from riding a big motorbike).
With other hybrids: depends on the generator they have installed, but it matches the consumption in amps by the engine in order to "go" if it is not directly coupled with the transmission, or they just downshift to accelerate with help of the electric engine.
I am assuming a lot here: Toyotas (specially RAV4) mount CVTs among others, assuming pure electric generator by the ICE or coupled to it... So it depends a lot on specific configuration.
I know it's not exactly the same, but I was a teenager and curious, and you can rev them and shift into drive with some heel-toe finesse. Not sure if this works on the newer ones, this one was an early 2010s model.
Trees, multiple motorcycles, final destination esque road debris, an accident that should have totalled it if not for an insurance mistake, leading to repairs worth more than the car. Three teenage drivers and two adult drivers with heavy feet. Not to mention many many hardware store runs hauling various sacks of yard materials, baby trees, lumber, etc.
My favorite times were rallying on compacted un-plowed snow. The thin tires and light weight meant it absolutely shredded.
It's my opinion that the Toyota Prius is one of the greatest vehicles ever built and they should be respected and feared.
Both will rev on neutral, but when the gear selector is on Drive there is no link between the pedal and RPM.
Losing muscle memory of pressing the brake pedal. Makes sense, actually.
China has banned "one pedal driving" as a default.
Regardless, your point stands. People that have gotten used to not directly using brakes to indicate you are slowing down is a dangerous thing with how reliant we are on the standard indications that you are slowing. All the more so if you need to rapidly lose a ton of speed, where even regenerative brakes often fall back to friction.
Most, if not all, EVs will light up the brake lights when you're slowing via regen braking as long as the deceleration rate is above a certain threshold. I know my Tesla does.
Emergency brake systems probably help a lot with this problem, of course. Still seems wise to follow some of the older practices that we used to drill into people.
Which is why I'm surprised electric cars with range extenders aren't a bigger thing:
* https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Range_extender
Have the powertrain be all-electric, and have a battery pack, but for those with range anxiety have a small generator as an option that would go in the frunk (front truck). A (proverbial) small Honda EU2200i would be less maintenance than a traditional engine.
Re: maintenance, small engines typically are pretty needy. That one wants an oil change, spark plug gap adjustment, and spark arrestor cleaning every 100 hours of use. The latter two are only usage-based, but the oil is time-based as well (6 months) since it oxidizes, and suffers from fuel dilution. Then there’s the fuel: god help you if you put ethanol gas into a small engine and let it sit for any period of time. It’s often difficult to find E0 fuel, and while there are external fuel tanks for generators that can hold quite a bit, they also tend to vent vapor in the heat (as does any tank, including a car’s), which is unpleasant when it’s in your frunk.
Finally, engines of all kinds really don’t like being left sitting for months on end unless prepared to do so. Generally you want to run them monthly, getting them up to operating temperature, putting a load on them for a bit to fully exercise all components.
I say all this because I have an EU2200i and dearly love it, but am also painfully aware of its limitations and needs. I got it when I lived in Texas because the power outages were getting to be absurd, and my house wasn’t plumbed for natural gas, so a whole-house was out of the question. The 2200i was plenty to power two fridges, a deep freezer, TV, fans, and my server rack. I got really good at quickly running extension cords (which is a whole other discussion on ensuring proper amperage ratings and calculating voltage drop, something most people ignore).
proverbial
Assume the car gets 4 miles per kWh delivered and the charging cycle is 90% efficient (measured from generator output). The 2.2kW generator can add 8 miles/hour of generator runtime (2.2 kW * 0.9 * 4 miles/kWh).
For range anxiety of the form "we're driving to a destination pretty far away and I'm not sure we can get there", that's not very helpful. For range anxiety of "I'm driving to a destination that's over half my range and then going to spend a full day [or overnight] there, but I'm not sure there will be working chargers available there", charging 8 mph times 8-10 hours is very helpful.
Worrying about being stuck in the boondocks without a charger is addressed by an 8 mph on-board charger, but I think that's the less common form of range anxiety.
The Chevy Volt range extender was 75kW; the i3's was 26.6kW. 2.2kW is literally an order of magnitude too small to replace those.
Also, something I didn’t mention in my post; at full power they’ll suck their tank dry in a little over 3 hours. You’ll get about 20 miles of range (using your assumptions above) from one. Tbf you can also parallel two of them, or buy a slightly larger model (EU3200i), but either way, it’s still not going to be anything other than an emergency backup where you have a lot of time to kill.
Could you expand on this? What was the actual problem? For example, did the range extender start and run? Did it put any energy into the battery at all?
I don't know what to call this.
"Legislated fragility"
And yet that's what an ICE car is.
So a range extender (RX) should be no worse than ICE: in fact a little less complex because you don't have a gear train and transmission.
> The LEVC TX is powered by a full-electric hybrid drivetrain. It drives in full-electric mode all the time, but is recharged by an 81-horsepower (60 kW; 82 PS) Volvo-sourced 1.5-litre turbocharged three-cylinder petrol engine.
The #1 reason for (european) companies not buying full EV vans is range, they need to drive a LOT during the day.
REX would solve that with minimal emissions. And depending on the battery size, they could drive on full EV in city centres and only allow the REX to charge the battery during longer drives.
The BMW i3 REX is a fantastic car, if you can find one, buy it.
I think a Diesel indirect injection REX would be awesome. It could burn vegetable oil, which is more viscous, but indirect injection doesn't need to atomize the fuel as much.
As dboreham says in the sibling comment, the range anxiety morphs into charger-availability anxiety. Even if I know a charger physically exists at my destination, if it's 45% or more of the range away, I still need to worry that it will be working, that my access will work, that it won't be occupied or blocked, etc.
In nearly 40 years of driving, I almost never researched gasoline availability (through the Nevada desert and in Central America, I did).
In a little over a decade of BEV driving, I've done a lot of EVSE (charger) researching.
Today, if I run out of petrol|gasoline somewhere, even if I'm in the middle of nowhere and don't have a gas can, I can still recover from that situation within an hour or so (hitch a ride to the next gas station, buy gas can, fill with gas, hitch back to my vehicle). With an EV the density of fueling/charging locations is orders of magnitude lower than for gas, and if I end up discharged I'm looking at finding a flat bed truck, or perhaps a mobile high power generator.
Disclosure: I own both kinds of vehicles.
I've had my BEV for about 5 1/2 years. My first road trip (Portland -> Santa Clara, ~560 miles each way), I planned it out ahead of time with ABRP. These days, I'll just let the nav figure it out.
I have been totally unconcerned about it since.
You’d need to tow around a 7.2kW 240V for 30A at 240V (more likely a 14.4kW generator for 240V 60A).
Using the small Honda inverter generator (which is amazing for plenty of stuff!) is akin to covering your car in solar panels to get range extension, the math just doesn’t work out.
There are a handful but most hybrids are either parallel or series-parallel. I assume because the power range is so low that the conversion losses are way too noticeable compared to a mechanical drivetrain.
The Toyota Prius powerchain has two motor generators, and can take part of the ICE power from one and transfer it electrically to the other, remapping the engine RPM into more efficient power bands at the same time. It has a mode that can do this even when no power is being used from the battery.
It’s kind of a best of both worlds. They can avoid the extra weight of a full series hybrid, because they don’t need a motor generator pair that handles the full engine power.
Actually, power bands remapping is essential for the Prius to operate.
There is no clutch, there is no neutral gear, there is no torque converter. The ICE is always connected directly to the wheels with a fixed gear ratio on a planetary gear set. (Which improves transmission efficiency over a automatic/CVT gearbox, and actually reduces maintenance costs)
One of the motor-generators is on the 3rd input of the planetary gear. For the ICE to idle (during warm up, or when you have the heater on), the motor-generator much be spinning backwards at the exact same speed so that the wheels stay stationary.
Power band remapping can also be used for reversing when the battery is empty.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLUIExAnNcE has more info.
Honda even recently announced that they're scaling back on electric to focus on hybrids:
https://www.reuters.com/business/autos-transportation/japans...
[1] https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2023-12-19/hybrid-ca...
edit: Thanks for the correction. They do indeed use resistors and just dump the energy as heat. Unfortunate.
Hopefully this will change as supercaps continue to improve. Maxwell tech's modules are already used in light rail, and looks like some work towards smaller locomotives in Switzerland here:
Dynamic brake
A direct mechanical connection is more efficient at highway cruise speeds than a mechanical->electric->mechanical conversion.
The main win a gasoline hybrid has is in running the Atkinson cycle gaining efficiency while losing torque which the electric motor makes up. This brings the gasoline engine up into diesel efficiency territory.
This is also why you don't really diesel hybrids, the engine is already very efficient but it is more expensive and heavier and hybrid adds more expense and weight.
However in practice the vast majority of hybrids do not use this approach and have motors that vary RPM with road speed (depending of gearing of course).
The common case of maintaining ideal RPM is the CVT, which most folks dislike, so much so that some models have a switch to pick how many fake gears you have to break up the boring drone of a constant RPM engine.
BTW, the chevy bolt was advertised as a serial hybrid, right up to the day it shipped.
I believe the most common serial hybrid today is an EV with a range extender.
i believe there is also a chinese company which is making such a car, their cars have nearly 1000 miles range.
Close: they have the highest efficiency at about 90% of maximum torque for most of the RPM range. So if you want double the power, you want to be able to double the RPM; and if you want half the power, you want to be able to drop the RPMs in half. To pull this off, you either need a very quick shifting gearbox or some sort of CVT.
This is also why automatic transmissions, despite being ~80% efficient versus ~95% manual transmissions, are not much worse on mileage. Because they can quickly switch between low RPM and higher RPM (first by torque converter lockup, second by switching gears).
I remember buying plans from the Whole Earth News for such a car back around 1980. That was the selling point - keep the ICE running at an optimal point. I've not seen those same plans reproduced online.
> The gas engine has maximum efficiency at about 80% throttle.
ICE efficiency varies in multiple dimensions based on load and RPM, and in a series hybrid, you have some ability to dynamically influence these... throttle would be one of those inputs.
Though H/K have recently introduced a new hybrid system with a CVT, so maybe 2026 or 27 model years will be different.
Since I'm only making one comment, I also want to say hybrid cars are better than ICE because there are fewer belt-driven accessories. Aircon in particular on an electric motor is a big improvement. Without the idling engine producing heat, hybrids are much nicer in hot stop-and-go conditions!
Also my Prius made it its whole life (200k miles and ~20 years) without ever changing the brake pads... amazing!
Toyota and Lexus, obviously, use eCVT in their cars.
Honda is also in eCVT camp for most of their models but for example new CR-V has weird setup. It acts as an BEV until ~80-100kmh and then shifts completely to ICE with a single gear. While in EV mode the engine is constantly charging batteries.
Then you have KIA and Hyundai with their dual clutch setup in all HEV and PHEV range.
I find it a pity that Lexus uses CVTs as I would probably sell my BMW 330e and get a Lexus.