The linked original paper is readable and answered many questions. They simply embrace the idea that some "crazy shape" will work, and then do "machine learning" in a simulation to find it.
Perhaps if they added some more constraints (e.g. on smoothness) they would end up with a shape like that.
3d printers and search algorithms don't have that restriction and can directly optimize for optimal splitting and minimal acoustic losses.
This object is sort of an eversion of a cochlea. Perhaps it could be made with a "nice" shape, but I wouldn't assume so.