Heat pumps work great under the right circumstances. In cold climates like Boston and north of it, ideally you want ground source, which means digging deep (or wide) holes to flow water through instead of just pulling heat from outside air. Alternatively, (or additionally, ideally) they're best used in homes with very tight air envelopes, good insulation, and heat/energy recovery ventilation (HRV/ERV) systems. Installed in radiant heating systems in well-built houses, heat pumps are fantastic and you'll be comfortable all year for pennies on the dollar.
The reality is that most (US) construction, especially older, is just terrible in terms of air seal and insulation. Couple that with a potentially undersized air-source heat pump, which gets inefficient as the outside temp gets near the low end of its operating range, and you will not have a great time. But even then they are a good way to supplement gas heating, so you can limit furnace use to the coldest weeks of the year and do the environment a favor, as well as cool in the summer.
Are you one of the grifters or just confused?
ACs in cold climates are cheap. Cooling a house down 20 degrees doesnt take a lot of BTUs. Plus they’re just cheaper per-BTU and a typical northeast homeowner is going to be comfortable installing a cheap brand because it’s not life-or-death if your AC goes out.
When you start talking about having a heat pump being the primary heat source in a cold climate home, that’s a different ball game. First you need WAY more BTUs to heat a house in winter lows — even NYC hits single-digits most winters, that’s a 60 degree temperature differential. And you need to be prepared for the worst temperatures which basically necessitates a top-end brand like Mitsubishi which is rated down to historic-ish lows.
Not to mention that many homes don’t have central ducts, so converting to a heat pump means ductwork or mini splits..
All in all it’s not really a negligible thing.
Here’s a concrete example that took 5 minutes to find. Two condensers from the same company, same seller, same SEER, same series, same tonnage, except the second does heat. The heat pump is 29% more expensive.
2 Ton 14.3 SEER2 Trane Air Conditioner Condenser - RT Series. $1615
2 Ton 14.3 SEER2 Trane Heat Pump Condenser - RT Series. $2090
https://hvacdirect.com/trane-a4ac4024d1-2-ton-14-3-seer2-air...
https://hvacdirect.com/trane-a4hp4024d1-2-ton-14-3-seer2-hea...
You can, right now, buy air source heat pumps rated to -28C (-14F). While not enough for record lows in, say, Chicago or Toronto, it's plenty for places like New York, Seattle, and Vancouver.
If anything having a backup heat source makes me feel secure. A lot of things can go wrong with a gas furnace; some things can go wrong with a heat pump; but 10kW of electric restive heat is dead simple and just by itself it can provide 34000 BTU/h, which is 60% of the output of my old gas furnace. I don't think the duty cycle of my gas furnace ever exceeded 60% running time.
The auxiliary heater consists of two 5kW heaters, so even if one fails, there is still the other.
Do you have a wood burning back up? At my house in Massachusetts, we had a wood-burning stove that we could always fire up in a pinch. It never came to that, but it felt good knowing that we can always just burn a super hot fire and not freeze to death.
I live in an urban environment, so I'm not too worried about losing power for an extended period of time, and if I do I would probably just leave temporarily.
In my rural living fantasy I have a Ford F150 Lightning which I use as a "portable" backup battery that can be recharged by driving it to a Level 3 charging station. That and either a pellet stove and/or a Masonry Heater fireplace that sits opposite to a large equator (south) facing window.
I don't know much about how heat pump performance degrades, but going in to a life-and-death situation where the main heat system is operating outside rated performance seems like poor planning.