Upon further reading, I think you might be correct. I initially thought a good signing process would be sufficient since it sounded like this malicious blob was secretly being included in the tarball by the build server, but it instead seems to be the case that the malicious binary was included in the repo as a test file.

You could probably still protect against this sort of attack using signing, but it would be much more laborious and annoying to get working. The idea is that you would somehow declare that OpenSSH binaries must be signed by a *particular* key/authority, that VS Code is signed by Microsoft, Chrome signed by Google, etc. Additionally, the config declaring all of this obviously needs to be secured so you'd need to lock down access to those files (changing key associations would need to require more permissions than just updating old software or installing new software to be useful).