The NSA uses a completely different set of algorithms called Suite A. They don't use AES for exactly this reason.
That quote does not exist in the one Wikipedia citation. I am not sure where they got it. Any time data flows from one physical location to another it is encrypted with Suite A algorithms, which is arguably where it matters the most.
My theory is they've got a backdoor in the iPhone hardware random number generator. It's the most obvious high-value target, it's inherently almost undetectable (the output of a CSPRNG is indistinguishable from real random numbers), and you can keep crypto researchers busy with fights about whose cryptosystem is best, safe in the knowledge that it doesn't matter what they come up with, they were owned from the start.