I see similar loss curves when training ViTs (from scratch), which has always bothered me but I had bigger concerns so never delved too deep into it. The only difference is that I see the training loss go _up_ during each epoch. The cliffs between epochs are large enough that training loss goes down overall and validation loss keeps going down the whole time as well. The model gets close-ish to SoTA so I guess it's "normal".
I haven't trained convnets at this scale so I'm not sure if similar behavior has been seen there, but you'd think someone would have mentioned it at some point. So perhaps these strange loss curves are a feature of Transformer based models in particular?