The syntax IS absolutely horrible if you ask me as it results in crazily verbose ways of expressing stuff. Everything is "too meta" and there are very few first class parts of the language. It still FEELS like it's hacked together with C macros (which was what it originally was).
Add to that the reference counting implementation (when GC is not enabled which you can't do on iOS) and it's just painful. Also the lack of any decent threading abstraction - ick.
I think there is a lot of hype around it. It's not where we should be in 2012. Android does better with bastardised Java if you ask me.