Total agreement on QGIS: seems daunting at first, but if you know exactly what you want you can usually get there in half an hour.

I have been using this a lot for scout activities and keep grandma-style notes of which buttons to push for a particular use-case. So awesome to be able to do things like contour-only maps and atlas along a route.

For any Danes around: There is an official plugin from "Kortforsyningen" for QGIS, allowing you to pull all the high-quality public data directly into your maps.