On 50/50, yes, we write lots of JavaScript for Ajax. We've done that since 2005 with Tada list. The debate here is over whether going client-side MVC for everything is a pleasant experience. I contend that it is not.
The maintainability story with pjax+caching is exactly the same as its always been with a Rails app. We just celebrated 8 years with Basecamp. That's a pretty good run.
You can write shit, unmaintainable code in anything, but to point at pjax and granular key-based caching schemes as somehow specifically prone to this? What? That doesn't make any sense to me.
We also had a swanky in-house client-side MVC framework cooking with Cinco. We used it once for Basecamp Mobile and while it was a good experience and the end result was great, it did little to sway my thinking on client-side MVC being a step forward in programming happiness (one of the key things I evaluate platforms by).
Again, it's perfectly fine to have a different opinion. I don't like the aesthetics nor the sensibilities of Python code much, but I certainly respect that people can make cool shit with it and even that they might enjoy the process.
The hoopla here is over the terribly flawed notion that client-side MVC is somehow The Future of web development and if you don't follow that pattern, you're living in The Past. Ha.