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Man, I miss those 20+ pages long Ars Technica reviews. They don't seem to publish these kind of stuff anymore.

The macOS Ventura review doesn't count?

Not really. It lacks the insight and the attention to small changes and under the hood improvements of the Siracusa's reviews, in my opinion.

Strongly agreed.

Siracusa's pieces were all meat, no filler. The modern ones are trivial glances at the cosmetics: all filler, no meat.