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i'm surprised that Apple doesn't do directory-level metadata directly in the filesystem itself, e.g. with xattrs on the directory inode.

It does store that metadata in the directing in Mac OS native file systems. The DS files are only for non-Mac file systems like FAT32.

This is not true. My APFS volumes are absolutely littered with .DS_Stores. They're generated every time you open a directory in the Finder.

“Directory” not “Directing”