https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/2516-1091/abe6f8#...
Seems like spectroscopy seems particularly promising, and according to the article, that's the approach Apple is taking. (Makes sense for a watch.)
And from the paper, the challenges with spectroscopy are signal interference -- scattering, water absorption, and distinguishing between glucose and other sugar components. So it ultimately sounds like a fiendishly complex signal processing problem. Which is exactly the kind of problem that is very very hard yet maybe not impossible.