These models are infant technology. They are the chess playing computers of 1960.
It's completely missing the forest for the trees to call it out as useless. It's not meant to be useful right now, it's exploratory tech meant to feel out the space. Wait till it gets developed to hold it to some standard.
I should note though that progress has been far faster than computer chess. We went from "An AI wont beat a Go champion for at least 30 years" to "AI beats Go champion" in two years.