Is “ever so trendy” a pejorative? Because the Ooni he mentions is amazing. Three of my brothers (two of them chefs) have them and they make a huge difference.
I’m sure there’s plenty sold to people who can’t make a decent pizza with or without them, but in the right hands they’re fantastic.
While I can’t think of any right now, there are parallels in other markets - great tools that many have diminishing returns depending on the operator. Maybe espresso machines?