I’ve heard mixed things from Indians. I suppose the question might *not* be how much it remains a democracy - you are correct that the ruling party appears to have wide popular support - but how limited some freedoms might be for non Hindus.
And where they don't have that support, they "buy" elected reps: https://www.google.com/search?q=bjp+buy+mp+mla
Where exactly is freedoms limited for non Hindus? Can you name some of these freedoms that have been limited?