I think Ken Rockwell probably qualifies for that.
https://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/recommended-cameras.htm
One solution is things like Consumer Reports and Wirecutter, where you have an institution that does some quality control. But I wonder if there's something in the middle, like a few good reviewers clubbing together and certifying one another, such that there's a recognizable brand that they share, one with meaningfully high standards.
He is not the "Stereophile" type of reviewer, for example.