I’m yet to find a better way to write crud apps than that pattern.
After days of fumbling in the dark you finally isolate the problematic query, post it like "guys I found it," and still nobody speaks up. So you hack the ORM to attach tracebacks as comments to each query, retest everything, and finally git-blame your way to somebody who owns that bit of code and they're always like "wait, the ORM did WHAT?"
I'd rather grep code for SQL any day.
Some things got easier to express with SQL after Json_agg in postgres became a thing (now you can do multi-depth relations without blowing up the result table with Cartesian product) but it's still massive pain in the ass and Json agg has performance overhead too.
This is the joy of SQLAlchemy: great features when you want to use them; escape hatches when you don't.