You might enjoy the Mobile Atlas tiles from Thunderforest [0].
I think the low contrast on Google Maps is uniquely ridiculous. You don't have to go all the way to OSM / road atlas. I think Mapbox Streets, Apple Maps (somewhat) and Gaia Topo Lite (my go to) are all perfectly fine maps with roughly the same "feel".
Google Maps contrast is so ridiculous that I have a private app called "Kontrast Maps" that is just the Maps SDK with a high contrast style applied. Me and a friend with a visually impairment get a ton of use out of that. I would love to publish it if it weren't for the insane pricing on Maps iOS SDK.
I'm also disappointed enabling "High Contrast" in Apple operating systems doesn't apply a high contrast maps style. Seems like a super obvious accessibility feature.