My take-away was not about the lack of ease, but the lack of elegance. That we have foregone Truth for the fast buck.
The reason? Almost zero deployment complexity. You can take Joe Web Designer off the street, give him SFTP (or, more likely, FTP) credentials, and have him modifying your site in minutes.
Modify a file, click refresh.
I love PHP, but I'm in programming like a shade-tree mechanic: I just want a large enough hammer to make something work, I don't care how pretty the end result is.