Thank you for reminding me it! Awesome finding.
Worth noting, each recipe can have its very own SHELL[0] (e.g., ruby recipe, that uses ruby command with -e flag):
ruby: .SHELLFLAGS := -e
ruby: SHELL := ruby
ruby:
greeting = "labas"
puts "#{greeting}, ruby!"
[0]: http://agdr.org/2020/05/14/Polyglot-Makefiles.html