The gotcha is you can't easily decrypt your own "data" over the air, as the keys you need are resident in the SIM card, and can't be extracted (Ki and OPc being the two symmetric keys you need for LTE)
What you can do though is use srsUE to connect to a network as a piece of user equipment through an SDR, and you can connect a real SIM card to your PC using a standard PCSC smartcard reader [1].
If you have a couple of SDRs, you can run your own eNodeB (4G base station) and run your own "mini network". Obviously watch out for spectrum licensing rules, as handsets only work on certain bands, which are probably all licensed out and illegal to use without spectrum licencing. Some options with light/"zero" licensing are emerging - the UK, US, Germany, Sweden and some others have shared spectrum in bands that work for 5G. The open source ecosystem isn't quite there yet, but it's not a million miles away.
This should get you towards an "LTE wireshark" as you were looking for.
[0] https://docs.srsran.com/en/latest/usermanuals/source/srsue/s...
[1] https://docs.srsran.com/en/latest/usermanuals/source/srsue/s...