The thing is you can still do all of this. But we have since built tools and frameworks to let you still do this, while giving you superpowers. I think Svelte is the best example of this. You can create a dead simple site with it and have the result you are talking about, but the real power is now you can employ many of those advanced techniques that were reserved for large web apps in the same dead simple site.
> Is tailwind really easier to work with something like - let's say - pico.css? Of course if you want to do super-elaborate layouts, then probably yes - but if you embraced a more minimalist approach?
I've used tailwind quite a bit, it's killer feature is the fact that it's just intuitive. With most CSS frameworks, even minimal ones, I always refer back to the docs to see how they do a specific thing. With Tailwind you refer to the guide a few times but very quickly pick up how it does things. I think that's why it's so popular, I've typed out classes thinking "is this a thing", and almost every single time, it was.