I would assume "amount of syntax required to express a given concept," with the use of the word "bureaucracy" implying that some concepts require too much syntax relative to their complexity (something that depends on your values). The classic example being mapping over a slice.
Here's some Rust code
pub fn read(&self) -> u64 {
self.counts.values().fold(0, |acc, x| acc + x)
}
func (w *Whatever) Read() uint64 {
var total uint64
for _, v := range w.values {
total += v
}
return total
}
YMMV, of course. None of this is objective.
Similarly, even though I'm not a big fan of Rust, I would personally prefer to encounter the Rust snippet. The way I read code, I'm already building up mental models of things in my head, so adding more (e.g. what fold is) isn't that big of a deal to me. I think I'm a person who is able to look at a function call and not have the desire to dig into its source, though, which I don't think is the way everybody (and most certainly not the designers of Go) feels. Plus once I understand the concept, even if it's a lot less universally applicable than fold, I can reuse my understanding of it throughout the system and possibly throughout multiple systems.
Like you said, I think this is largely a subjective thing. I just find it objectionable when people, on either side of the fence, come in and say "abstracting over concepts and possibly making them first class is always better" or "...always worse."