LineageOS + microG here, on a motoX4. It's been the phone I use every day for about a year. My wife has the exact same setup, and generally gets along fine with it. FDroid has _most_ of the stuff we want. Some apps just aren't available there, so we end up using the Aurora store for those, with Warden used to scan those apps and stub out as much tracking code as it can. It's all about compromises, especially for others.

Self-hosted NextCloud replaced Drive/Dropbox, and with some plugins it also does phone/location tracking, secure messaging and video calls, TODO lists, and some more. Self-hosted PhotoPrism replaces Google Photos.

The phone experience hasn't been bad. One thing that came up initially is that most of the open source apps aren't as "pretty", and the UX just isn't as good. I don't care about it too much, and I'm fine with overall using the phone less anyway. The issue that comes up on a regular basis is the Google Maps replacement. OSMand is a great app, but like someone else mentioned it's more of a "look up the address and type it in" experience than a "show me all Thai restaurants in the area" experience. IMO small price to pay, I've been using GPS much less, and I've gotten much better at navigating with my "mental map".