The only airport I've been to in the US that doesn't appear entirely beholden to this dynamic, or one very similar to it, is PDX. Portland International seems to have several eateries and establishments which are representative of some of the more popular local "name brand" establishments, e.g. Stumptown, Country Cat, Kenny & Zukes, etc. As a result, it's one of the only airports I don't dread eating at when I'm coming & going.