The counter is right there in the article:

> Global markets don’t buy enough sustainably produced foods such as Brazil nuts or acai to keep people afloat, whereas the appetite for beef, grains, and timber seems bottomless. (In 2020, Brazil exported $35.2 billion of soybeans, soybean meal, and soybean oil, and only $128.3 million of nuts.)

When you're down at the bottom, living under a tarp, and barely making enough money to support yourself and your family, then you're going to chose the money.