TradeWars 2002 is alive and well! Star Killer's server is probably my favorite place to play:
http://www.oregonsouth.com/ice9/
Tools like TWXProxy and Mombot still see frequent updates:
https://github.com/MicroBlaster/TWXProxy
SWATH, despite its age, works great (nowadays I use it for very simple macros and as a front end to TWXProxy):
Tournament-level play is incredible. Deep strategy, full automation. You definitely do not warp around willy-nilly unless you want a planet full of photon missiles and quasar cannons dropped on your head. Sure, the ANSI graphics means you have to use your imagination a little more than in EVE, but if anything, that makes it _more_ fun for me.