Don't waste time with WiFi on the gateway itself as most WiFI chips you can buy are crippled in firmware for regulatory reasons. Just use a dedicated commercial AP hooked up directly or VLANed.
Once you get comfortable with something like pfSense I highly recommend switching to regular Free/OpenBSD, or Linux depending on what you're comfortable with. I find it much easier to manage a gateway with the entire configuration in version control than a GUI. There aren't that many services that a gateway needs to run.
If you feel like you'll miss pf on the *BSDs check out nftables on Linux. It's not as well documented but it's much less painful than iptables.
To loop this into the UPnP discussion: when you build your own gateway from scratch you have to add a UPnP daemon and configure it yourself, instead of forgetting to disable it and exposing poorly configured IOT stuff.
If I was going the "dedicated machine" route, I'd probably go with OPNsense nowadays.
Not aff'd, just a customer.
Software wise, pfSense is where it's at, but I don't have experience with their own hardware other than the ones we ran at work all failed due to a silicon flaw in the Intel SoCs they ran.
Sadly there isn't exactly a lot of alternatives in the hobbyist network setup area ... It's basically just ubiquity and mikrotik at this point as far as I know
Recent events suggest that the people behind pfSense are not especially responsible stewards; see https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2021/03/buffer-overruns-lice... and https://opnsense.org/opnsense-com/ .