I'm convinced that "Amazon's Choice" means that it is Amazon's choicest item for high margins [0], and most certainly does not mean that their staff of highly discriminating reviewers decided that this is the best of the bunch.

Which is why the item to which you refer is still "Amazon's Choice": everyone's making money except the end consumer.

[0] In fact, I seem to recall an article that did an analysis of some sort and came to that conclusion. Hell if I can find it, though.