I definitely noticed this weird lack of information on Express. I've found the best thing is to check out the examples from Express' own github: https://github.com/visionmedia/express/tree/master/examples
That's useful to see how something is done, but not why or the different options available. For that, there's still a definite lack of a clear guide. The guide on the Express website reads more like an API reference and doesn't go into detail on how to use the different features, which I think would be very helpful.
Right now I'm working on my first application using Express. Over the Summer, when I have free time, I'd like to write a tutorial series for Express and put it up on github so it can be updated as Express evolves. That's really one of the main issues right now, all this stuff is changing so rapidly that a tutorial can become outdated in a few months.