iTunes is now name Music on macOS, btw.
Step 1: create an aac-encoded file with the .m4r extension to its name
Step 2: connect phone to Mac and drag and drop .m4r file on to iPhone on desktop
Step 3: there is no step 3
For those who want to do this without needing a Mac or PC there are apps that will do the job as well.
I know macOS Store subscription management is, hilariously enough, still just in Music app. (I wanted to cancel MS Office subscription - for Mac! not for iPhone! - and I needed to do that in Music app.)