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I just downloaded the app. Can I not use it at all without an account? If so, why?

You should be able to use without an account.

There is a Skip button in the top right corner of the opening screen, or the Register screen. Ping me at andrew@gaiagps.com if you can't find it.

Ah, yeah, my bad for not noticing the dark grey text on a black background.

Ah, I apologize... I think you were seeing a bug in our dark mode implementation, which was just released. We fixed it in the next update.