There's a couple aspects to this:
1. After a while, the "if err != nil {" becomes a single statement in your mind, and you only notice it if it's different (like trapping things that should error with "if err == nil {"). In other words, it only feels verbose if you're not used to it. After a while, the regular rhythm of "statement, error check, statement, error check" becomes the routine pattern of your code and it looks weird if you don't check for errors (which is as it should be).
2. The point of Go's error handling is that it isn't magic. There's nothing special about error values, and they are handled exactly the same way as every other variable in the system. The only thing the language defines about errors is that they have a method called Error that returns a string. That's it. This means that you can create complex error handlers if you need it, entirely within the standard language. This is extremely powerful.
The Go team's examination of the language error handling is interesting because it seems there's a conflict between newer Gophers who don't like the verbosity of it (but don't realise the power it brings) and the older Gophers who are used to the verbosity and appreciate the power. Almost exactly like TFA. The repitition looks ugly if you don't appreciate the reasons for it.