A real book "not worth the paper it's written on" simply falls out of print and is not reviewed; it does not generate twenty more pages of overpretentious literary diatribe decades later. Readers are advised to skip this article.
That's exactly the point of the comment you're replying to.
It's not a contemporary review. It's from "Vol. 18 No. 14 · 18 July 1996" of the London Review of Books, so it came out contemporaneously with Infinite Jest