Your coworkers and (possibly more importantly) your managers, are critical determining factors in how it all works out for you. Probably more so than whether you have a choice in technology, etc.
People don't leave companies, they leave managers.
There are good and bad managers at both small and large companies. One advantage of going to a small company is that you're more likely to get to meet the exact manager you'll report to during the interview process. One disadvantage is that there is a much wider range of how good a manager they are, because they probably have fewer peers to compete with. Managers take a lot of flack, but to manage teams at a big company like Google or Amazon you probably have to be at least decent at what you're doing, whereas at a small startup you might just be the person who got there first.
Years ago, I was hired to work at a small tech startup. After a few weeks, the CEO met with me and said it seemed to him that I didn't have a lot of respect for the opinion of my manager (who had never managed anyone in a tech company before, and never done any development themselves.) I told him straight out, no, I didn't respect their opinion - I didn't think they were qualified to be a manager. (Needless to say I didn't stay there very long.)